une fin d'été en normandie     ... along with a side-trip to brittany

Josie & Wolfgang
Austria, November 2025

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By the time you read this ...
we are back from our summer holidays in the north-west of France. After spending our summer holidays in our home country for several years, it was about time to make new plans for 2025. We have chosen to travel the Normandy, one of the most beautiful regions in Europe. Fourteen wonderful days on a road trip, touring from Paris to the Seine-Maritime region, along the coastal areas of the Calvados and Manche including a quick side-trip to Cancale in Brittany, and from there across the Orne and Eure regions to Giverny at the Seine river before our return trip to Vienna.

Besides the gorgeous landscapes, what particularly impressed us in Normandy was the relaxed lifestyle of its lovely people and, of course, the delicious French food. Everything has unfolded naturally and wherever we went, we were welcomed warmly and hospitably. Merci!




Seine-Maritime

The bright cliffs of the Alabaster Coast, the linen fields of the Plateau de Caux and the meanders of the Seine river are among the scenic highlights of the Seine-Maritime department, which stretches in the north of Normandy between the lower reaches and the mouth of the Seine river and the white cliffs of the Alabaster Coast on the English Channel.
We've pitched our tent in the Castel de la Terrasse B&B on the hills of Etretat, a cozy small town between Fecamp and Le Havre from where we could conveniently reach most of the interesting places of the Alabaster Coast, as well as Honfleur, Trouville-sur-Mer and Deauville in the Calvados department.



Estelle, the owner of the property, is an elegant Frenchwoman straight out of a storybook and a great host. She gave us a very warm welcome and provided us with valuable tips and advice which places in the region we should visit and - important for us - where to eat in and outside Etretat.



For sure most of the travellers in that region have on their plans a visit to other towns and cities such as Honfleur, Trouville, Deauville or Le Havre, each of which has its own atmosphere and unique character formed by its people. But should you once be in Etretat, don't miss the coastal village Veules les Roses north-east of Fecamp on the way to Dieppe, which is known as one of the most beautiful villages in whole France.




Calvados

After spending four days in Etretat and the region stretching from Veules les Roses to Deauville it was time to start on our way to our next destination Reville, a coastal village in the Cotentin in the Manche department, facing the English Channel.





Our travel route took us via Honfleur and Trouville along the Côte Fleurie to the Ohama beach and the Normandie American Cemetery and Memorial, where we stopped for some hours to visit this history-charged place. "Omaha" refers to an 8 kilometer section of the coast, facing the English Channel, from Vierville-sur-Mer to Colleville-sur-Mer known as the American Sector during the pivotal D-Day liberation of Normandy. This iconic stretch of coastline invites visitors to explore its profound historical significance and connect with the stories of bravery during the D-day landings that shaped the course of history.



The Normandie American Cemetery and Memorial



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Manche, Cotentin

Reville and the stretch of coast between Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue and Barfleur at the English Channel later turned out to be one of our favourite destinations in the Normandy.

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Manche, Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel & Cancale in Brittany

Mont-Saint-Michel and its bay was, of course, one of the highlights on our journey.
In this southern part of the Manche department, we received a warm welcome from Ana-Maria and François at their idyllic estate, Clerval. The location is ideal: the property lies near the heart of the Bay of Mont Saint-Michel and is a perfect base for exploring other attractions in that region of Normandy and parts of Brittany.



Situated near the coast in a broadleaf woodland between the villages of Genêts and Dragey, it is near points which offer magnificent views of the bay and Mont Saint-Michel. In addition to elegant and comfortable bed and breakfast rooms, Clerval also offers two studios in the garden. Mont Saint-Michel is just 25 minutes away by car, and Granville to the north can be reached in half an hour. François and Ana Maria are both certified guides in the bay and offer guided walks in German, English, Spanish, and French.



To enjoy a picturesque view of Mont-Saint-Michel during rising tides, François recommended to be no later than 7:30 p.m. at the Le Grouin du Sud viewing point just five kilometers south of Genets. His tide schedule was perfect.
This rocky outcrop located at the east side of the Mont Saint-Michel Bay, is a small headland, commanding some of the most breathtaking, sweeping views to be found in this area when during the high tides Mont-Saint-Michel seems to take a bath in the sea, lit by the warm orange sun setting at the horizon behind. The reward on finding that place was feeling all the more magical!



From that point, a glorious vista opens up before you: from the costal bay area, where the rivers Sélune and Sée meander in a silver glare to empty into the bay and an extraordinary variety of birdlife can be observed, all the way to Cancale in the Brittany, taking in Mont Saint-Michel bay along the way. The mount of Mont-Saint-Michel looms around four or five kilometres away and if you’re lucky, Mont-Saint-Michel presents itself during a spectacular sunset with dramatic cloud formations - and on mist-free evenings the coastline lights up in a beautiful dusk glow.

A side-trip to Cancale - what a "coincidence" that we love eating oysters ...



Genets is an ideal location to conveniently reach the costal stretch of the Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel where Brittany borders the Normandie, which is also home to Cancale, the capital of oyster farming. On our way to Cancale, known for its world-famous oysters that are considered among the best in France, over time the style of houses changed from half-timbered houses to robust stone houses, which apparently suits better to the more rough climate predominant in Brittany. Our intent behind that tour was clear, to combine a flying visit to Brittany with tasting of the delicious, fresh oysters harvested in Cancale. It was worth it - believe us.



When approaching Cancale it was low tide and we could see oyster beds as far as the eye can see and boats are sitting tilted to the side on the sandy bottom of the harbour Port de la Houle. This small seaside town at the beginning of Brittany’s Emerald Coast has been harvesting oysters since the Roman times. Once at Port de la Houle, one should not miss the Marché aux Huîtres (the oyster market of Cancale) behind the second jetty. At the market you can enjoy the finest Cancalaises oysters and follow the established ritual: gobble and throw back the shells on to the beach pile of shells formed by those who had visited before. We were not the first doing this and certainly not the last ...
Should you want to slurp oysters accompanied by a glass of wine while enjoying the view to the port we'd highly recommend to visit the "L'Atelier de L'Huitre" (petit restaurant de fruits de mer) at 15 quai Gambetta, Cancale. No fuzz, just the very best oysters.

Giverny sur-la-Seine

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